RAW converters at ISO 3200
The Story in a Nutshell
With the release of Aperture 2.0, one thing I was looking forward to was to see if a disturbing trend I noticed on some of my photos would be corrected or improved on. Now that I’ve had time to review specific images, I thought I’d write up an report to pass on to the development teams at Apple and Adobe, because my consensus is that there clearly is room for improvement.
High ISO performance on modern-day digital SLRs are simply amazing, compared to the film days. You can get images from ISO 3200, or even higher that exceed anything you ever saw on film. A whole new world of photography becomes possible.
One of the areas of interest I pursue is shooting candids in night clubs. I am an available-light purist. I don’t like using a flash. So in those dimly lit night clubs, I am forced to push everything to the absolute maximum. I use a Canon EOS 5D, 35mm f/1.4L, ISO 3200, (sometimes underexposed 1-stop for ISO 6400 effective) and of course, RAW.
(Please note that the pictures exhibited below were selected only to illustrate the problem I am reporting on, not on their artistic merits, so don’t tell me the pictures suck, because I already know that!)
So when I started doing this work a little more than a year ago, I started to notice that certain pictures I took would exhibit posterization or blooming. An extreme example here:
At first, I did not suspect the RAW converters because both Aperture and Photoshop gave me nearly identical output. I was led to believe that it was a problem with the 5D itself, perhaps with the ISO sensitivity pushed so high that the extremes in light (areas of darkness and subjects in spotlights) were just overwhelming the camera’s ability to give smooth graduations.
That part I could live with, perhaps, but there were also images, more disturbingly, where *new* information was being added. Example below:
There are strong yellow bands distrupting the areas of falloff on the skin colors. This was even more bothersome to me than the first example, because it just looks all wrong! Again, both Aperture and Photoshop were rendering the image like this.
Where is the problem occuring?
I was starting to have doubts about using my 5D at ISO 3200 with results like this. Granted, it didn’t occur very frequently, only in certain extreme examples, and that 90% of my other images where there wasn’t a strong contrast in colors or for specific colors, the image would be just fine. Like the image below.
But still, I didn’t want to capture the killer shot, and have it ruined with some posterization. But I couldn’t really back down to ISO 1600 either. ISO 1600 wouldn’t give me the shutter speeds I needed.
Its Not The Camera, Stupid
It was only by accident, one day when I was reviewing some shots on my 5D on a photo shoot when I realized I had not formatted the memory card and it still had old shots from a nightclub shoot from a week previous. A few of those pictures from that night had posterization issues, and so I decided to check them out on the camera, and see what the preview showed me.
And to my complete surprise. The preview image was just fine! No posterization at all!
So, where do things stand now?
With the release of Aperture 2.0, and its new RAW decoder, I eagerly checked out to see what, if any improvements. The results are mixed. Some things got vastly better, some were improved slightly, and some stuff, in my opinion, got worse. I realized I couldn’t just sit here and do nothing about it. I’m probably one of those extreme margin cases, and only by making my observations known, I can help the development teams at Adobe and Apple improve their RAW decoding for those examples.
The Good
In this example below, both Aperture 1.5 and Photoshop CS3 rendered skins with that mysterious deep yellow banding/blooming.
(Aperture 1.1 RAW)
(Photoshop CS3)
Aperture 2.0’s RAW dramatically improves the image. There is no more posterization in the picture anymore.
The Bad
Unfortunately, the above example is the only one I have observed that resolved the posterization/blooming issue completely. The majority of pictures I reviewed were improved slightly, but not completely, with the Aperture 2.0 RAW decoder. The Aperture 2.0 RAW example exhibits less posterization, but the color shifts are still rather apparent. Examples below:
(Aperture 1.1)
(Photoshop CS3)
(Aperture 2.0)
The Worse
In some of the pictures that I reviewed, I actually think Aperture 2.0 did worse. Those examples seem to be where magneta or purple posterization occurs. Examples below:
(Aperture 1.1)
(Photoshop CS3)
(Aperture 2.0)
Comments
5 Responses to “RAW converters at ISO 3200”
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you’re so smart.
Hey
I think i’m gonna try the old 3200 on my 5D…I use to love shooting with the black and white film version…thanks MP
Nice work.
Interesting findings! How have you found Lightroom in comparison? Currently d’loading trial versions of LR and Aperture 2.0..! From a hardware stance, LR seems far less demanding…
Hmm, interesting problem you’re having here; It doesn’t always look to me that you’re having a problem with the software itself. Having high ISO trades off certain types of image quality so this kind of problem is to be expected.
I know you’re a purist, but I highly recommend flash, regardless… try experimenting with a very little burst with high ISO. Part of the reason why you’re having low tonal range is because the light source in bars and such are not great for exposing your subject. For example, all those dim lights are sources that limit itself to a very low or eccentric color temperature. The flash bursts things at a perfect natural 5400 Kelvin, which is the same light temperature as sunlight. (ironic that you’re actually adding natural light with flash!) What makes 5400 kelvin special is that it provides the most tonal range for you to capture. You can use the best photo gear in the world, but if the subject to be captured isn’t in fine light quality, you wont have much to control anyways.
I also recommend experimenting your flash with gel filters. I think part of the reason you hate flash is because it brings the foreground with a strange white blast and render the ambient lighting tame. Try yellow gel or light red, or any you can get your hands on. The idea is to try to counterbalance the ambient light. For example, in incredibly tungsten situations, try light blue gel or light cyan. You don’t even have to flash your subject head on; just shooting upwards to the ceiling (if any) or any wall would act as an addition to ambient lighting.
Hope this helps; I enjoyed your drag series. Looking forward to your next works :).
Regards,
Chris